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An electric bicycle consists of two essential components: the motor and the battery. Both are crucial, and it is important to choose the right battery for your DIY customization. In this article, I will do my best to explain e-bike batteries in a simplified manner.
There are many factors to consider before purchasing a battery, and it's important not to make hasty decisions, as even lower-spec batteries can be costly.
I could write pages upon pages about modern batteries and their working principles, but I want to keep this article as simple as possible, focusing on selecting the right battery for your specific build.
Several variables need to be considered before buying a battery. I will list them below, and each one requires careful consideration:
For the purpose of this article, I will focus on the most popular voltages currently used:
Most road-legal e-bike kits use a 36V battery, while more powerful motors may require a 48V or even a 52V battery. When using high-performance electric bikes, the voltage can reach up to 72V or even higher.
For example, if you purchase a 250W mid-drive motor, you would need a 36V battery. If you opt for a 1000W BBSHD motor, you would need a 48V battery.
You need to decide where you want to mount the battery on your bicycle. The most popular location is the downtube in a diagonal position because it not only looks neat but also keeps the additional weight of the battery relatively centered and low, improving stability.
The Cube Target Pro mountain bike is powered by a Bafang BBS02 750W electric motor kit and a 52V battery.
Unfortunately, this may not apply to all bicycles and depends on the frame size and geometry. For many full-suspension mountain bikes, it can be challenging to mount the battery on the frame due to the rear suspension. Fortunately, there are now more compact battery packs available, but these packs have smaller outputs, typically around 36V 10.4Ah. Alternatively, you can mount the battery on the underside of the frame, but this may make it more susceptible to damage, and you need to check the clearance with the front tire when the suspension is fully compressed.
Frame-integrated batteries are also popular options for step-through frame bicycles or small frame bicycles. These types of batteries typically come with specific "double-layer" frames, which inevitably add weight to the rear of the bicycle.
Another important variable to consider is the Ah or "ampere-hour" rating of the battery. A battery with a capacity of 1 ampere-hour should be able to continuously provide a current of 1 ampere to the load for exactly 1 hour, or 2 amperes for 1/2 hour, or 1/3 ampere for 3 hours, and so on, before being fully discharged.
The capacity of a medium-sized battery is typically around 13Ah. When multiplied by the voltage, such as 36V x 13Ah = 468Wh, it gives the capacity in "watt-hours" (Wh). Watt-hours is a unit of electrical energy, equivalent to the power consumption of one watt over one hour. Therefore, a 36V 13Ah battery can effectively sustain 468 watt-hours.
How does this translate into measurable range? Assuming you are conservative with the power usage, you would spend approximately 20 watt-hours per mile of travel, giving you a range of 23.4 miles. This is based on the assumption of maintaining power consumption at that exact level throughout the duration.
Of course, in the real world, this scenario is unlikely as there are times when you may not need electric assistance at all, while other times you may heavily rely on it. For example, if you live in an area with long and steep hills, your power consumption per mile may exceed 20 watt-hours. If you reside in a fairly flat area, your consumption may be lower.
If you desire to achieve longer mileage, a 36V 17.5Ah battery would allow you to travel 31.5 miles at a constant power consumption of 20 watt-hours per mile. However, in real-world scenarios, I have reported ranges of 50-60 miles with such capacity batteries.
If you can only purchase a smaller battery, there are many ways to increase the battery range of an electric bike without spending any extra money.
Most electric bike batteries use standard 18650 lithium-ion cells produced by well-known manufacturers such as LG, Samsung, Panasonic, and Sanyo. In my opinion, opting for branded batteries is always wise as they tend to have longer lifespans and greater reliability compared to unbranded generic Chinese batteries. That being said, I have provided many battery packs using Chinese batteries without any issues. It all comes down to the price. Personally, I would spend a little more to purchase branded batteries as buying cheaper batteries might be a false economy.
Lithium batteries require careful handling. There are restrictions on their transportation, and it's not without good reason. The problem is that if they catch fire, they burn at very high temperatures and can cause severe burns or even death. Do not store them in areas exposed to extreme heat.
These batteries do not like extreme temperatures at either end. Their performance decreases once the temperature drops below zero, and most manufacturers set the minimum operating temperature at -20 degrees Celsius and the maximum at 45 degrees Celsius.
When the battery is new, it is generally recommended to run it through at least three full charge and discharge cycles to ensure the battery is fully balanced, although I have ample evidence to suggest that discharging the battery to at least 50% during normal use is sufficient for this period.
There is some evidence to suggest that always fully charging the battery can shorten its lifespan, and most of the time, charging it to 80% and only fully charging the battery once is more beneficial for long-term battery health over weeks.
This is a somewhat controversial topic, as a highly respected lithium battery expert told me that this is not the case. In fact, I had a customer who followed the above practice, and several months later, the maximum charging voltage dropped significantly, and the battery needed to be rebalanced.
If the battery is not used for several months, it is also essential to ensure that the battery has at least 80% charge. If the battery is left discharged for several months without use, the voltage in the battery may drop below the design minimum and could result in permanent damage. Additionally, it is not recommended to store the battery at its maximum capacity for more than a few days, as this is also detrimental to the long-term health of the battery.
All these battery packs use a Battery Management System (BMS), which is the brain of the battery. It is a small electronic circuit that prevents overcharging and over-discharging and regulates the overall amplifier output. A fully charged 36V battery has a voltage of approximately 42.2V, and the BMS typically shuts off the battery at around 29V. A fully charged 48V battery has a voltage of 54.4V and usually shuts off around 39V. This is crucial because over-discharging can permanently damage the battery's chemical composition.
This depends on several factors but will be influenced by the battery quality, voltage, Ah rating, and BMS. Most 36V 13Ah batteries have a continuous discharge rate between 15A-20A but may be able to provide higher output momentarily. This also depends on the type of motor controller being used. For example, the controller on a 1000W Bafang BBSHD can handle a continuous current of 30 amps.
A good mid-drive motor, such as Bafang or Tongsheng, utilizes the bike's gear ratio to transfer the power generated by the motor to the rear wheel. This results in higher efficiency and less battery energy consumption. On the other hand, large direct-drive hub motors cannot spin as fast, so they will consume more watt-hours per mile.
The weight of the rider also plays a significant role. A person weighing 100 kg riding a 250W electric bike at full power will consume more energy compared to a person weighing 75 kg.
If you only plan on using the bike for short trips of up to 20-30 miles, then a 36V 13Ah battery should be sufficient. The same applies to a 48V motor. However, if you plan on traveling or spending long periods in the saddle, it would be worthwhile to purchase a battery with a capacity of at least 36V 17.5Ah or even 20Ah.
The electric bike battery is one of the most important components as it transforms an ordinary bicycle into an electric one. On the other hand, it is also considered one of the most expensive parts of an electric bike, with prices ranging from $500 to $1000 for certain models.
Now, the question arises: Can electric bike batteries be repaired? Considering the cost of the battery and its significance to electric bike riders, it is a logical question to ask.
Generally speaking, electric bike batteries can be repaired since their main components, such as the battery cells, BMS board, and wiring, can be easily replaced. Based on this, the battery can be repaired by changing these components.
Now let's discuss the most significant issues that can occur with electric bike batteries, their symptoms, and the possible solutions.
The Battery Management System (BMS) is responsible for protecting the battery by regulating the flow of current into and out of the battery.
To understand how it works in practice, the BMS board is connected to all the cells in the battery and measures their individual capacities. When one cell discharges, the BMS completely shuts down the battery to prevent any potential damage.
From the functioning of the BMS, it becomes evident that charging or discharging is controlled by the BMS.
Therefore, if you find that the battery has some remaining charge but is unable to charge or discharge, it indicates a problem with the BMS.
To resolve BMS issues, there are generally two methods: resetting and replacing (I personally prefer replacement since BMS prices are not expensive either).
1. Remove the outer cover of the battery.
2. Disconnect the cables connected to the BMS of the battery.
3. Connect the battery to the charger and start charging.
4. During charging, reconnect the BMS cables.
By performing the above steps, the BMS will be reset to its default settings.
BMS Main Cables
There are three main cables connected to the BMS:
(P-) cable is responsible for negative discharge to the connector.
(C-) cable is responsible for negative charging to the connector.
(B-) cable is responsible for the battery's negative terminal connection.
Tools Required:
Screwdriver
1. Remove the outer cover of the battery.
2. Desolder the three main cables of the BMS.
3. Disconnect the connector connected to the battery.
4. Install the new BMS in the same position.
5. Resolder the main cables.
6. Connect the connector back to the battery.
7. Test the battery's charging.
If everything goes smoothly, reassemble the battery cover.
Important Note: In most cases, BMS damage is caused by faulty battery cells inside the battery. Therefore, it is advisable to measure the voltage of all the cells before reassembling the battery cover to ensure that all the cells are functioning properly.
The second most common cause of electric bike battery failure is damage to one or more cells inside the battery.
In this case, you will be unable to operate the battery at all.
You can identify the damaged cells by individually measuring the voltage of each cell. You will find that most cells have a consistent reading (e.g., 4.1 or 3.8 volts). When you notice a significantly lower reading in a particular cell, that cell is the problem.
There can also be visible signs of battery damage that you can observe with the naked eye, such as the presence of black substances or cuts on the battery casing.
Note: Replacing battery cells requires specialized equipment to ensure the proper functioning of the battery, so it is best to have it done by a professional.
Don't worry, the cost will be minimal since you have already done all the work and identified the defect. All you need is to connect a new battery cell. You won't have to spend too much!
The final major cause of battery failure is the presence of cut or disconnected wires inside the battery, whether it's in the main wiring of the battery or in the wires connected to the battery. This will result in the battery ceasing to function.
Usually, this issue occurs due to the battery being dropped or impacted on the ground. If you take good care of your electric bike's battery, you'll be safe from this.
To address this problem, simply remove the outer cover of the battery, locate the cut wires, and reconnect them.
Then, using a voltmeter, measure the voltage of the battery. If you find that the voltage reading is equal to the capacity of the same number of cells, you can determine the battery capacity using this formula (number of cells * 4.2 volts).
Connect the battery to a power source to ensure proper charging, and then close the battery cover.
When the battery is connected to the electric bike, it can cause damage or breakage to the battery pins, resulting in the battery ceasing to function.
You can visually inspect the pins to determine if the issue lies there, and in most cases, the battery will not be properly installed on the bike.
To address this issue, you can try modifying the pins using a screwdriver, but make sure to turn off the battery first.
Alternatively, you can replace the damaged parts within the battery entirely.
The reason you are unable to use the battery may be due to a faulty charger rather than a problem with the battery itself. To determine if the issue is with the battery, try charging it with another charger or test the charger itself.
You can refer to this article, which provides detailed explanations on how to test an electric bike battery charger.
In general, electric bike batteries can be repaired by replacing internal cells, the BMS board, or fixing internal wiring.
One of the most significant issues that can occur with electric bike batteries is BMS damage, internal cell damage, or internal wire disconnection. Lastly, the battery pins may be damaged due to improper removal of the battery.
The speed at which the electric bike system disconnects and your riding style are crucial for battery performance. Almost all major bicycle manufacturers now offer a range of road and off-road electric bikes.
From cargo commuting e-bikes to sleek carbon fiber electric road bikes that are almost indistinguishable from non-motorized bicycles, electric bikes have evolved from novelty to practicality in the cycling world.
Anyone who has invested in battery-powered consumer electronics can attest to the noticeable decline in battery performance over time. Therefore, for anyone considering purchasing an electric bike and existing owners alike, e-bike battery maintenance is an important consideration.
The best electric bikes
The best electric road bikes
The best commuting electric bikes
With the rapid pace of development, some potential electric bike owners are concerned that the premium they pay today will be frustratingly outdated in a few months. This is not entirely accurate and largely depends on your usage.
Take the electric bike motor, for example. Mid-drive motors come in two rated output powers: 250W and 500W. More powerful motors may be enticing, but they also consume more battery energy. For regular commuting, a 500W motor is almost entirely unnecessary.
As more research and development resources are poured into the electric bike market, mid-drive motors may become more efficient or lighter, but riders don't necessarily need greater output power. The key is finding the right balance between power and efficiency based on your specific riding needs.
What you should consider is battery technology and how the usage of an electric bike affects battery life.
Battery suppliers in the electric bike market have chosen lithium-ion as the standardized chemistry. This battery composition has been validated in consumer electronics and automotive industries. Therefore, there is a wealth of user data available regarding the health of lithium-ion batteries.
The motor of your electric bike will last a long time, with fewer moving parts prone to damage or heavy maintenance. Where performance may decline over time is in the battery pack.
Most smartphone or laptop users have experienced battery degradation over time. However, the loss of energy capacity can be mitigated. The most crucial impact on the health of electric bike batteries is the frequency of charging from very low energy levels.
If you frequently drain the battery to almost empty in most rides, the likelihood of significant degradation is very real. Ideally, you want to minimize the time spent at zero energy consumption and at 100% energy consumption.
Most electric bikes come with three-mode configurations, roughly divided into thirds. The lowest pedal-assist mode uses one-third of the available motor power, the middle setting uses two-thirds, and the third setting provides full power.
By default, using the eco mode, you should complete your electric bike rides with the maximum battery capacity possible.
Limiting the depth of discharge is the most important way to maintain the health of electric bike batteries.
While we all occasionally enjoy maximum motor assistance, it is quite unnecessary, especially considering the lower limits imposed on electric bike systems in the EU/UK, which are set at 25 km/h.
The only time you should use the full power of the electric bike is when conquering the steepest slopes during challenging climbs.
By judiciously using only the battery capacity you need and not excessively consuming all the extra watts, you will enjoy better and more stable battery health over time.
The electric bike motor also prefers a consistent cadence, preferably in the range of around 80 RPM. To achieve the best match between your input and the motor's output, it is better to ride with higher cadence and lower gears.
If you frequently ride your electric bike and fully deplete the battery, you may consider models with larger battery capacity. Alternatively, you can choose plug-in range extenders to balance the overall load of the electric bike's energy system.
Different countries and regions have different regulations regarding the speed and specifications of electric bikes.
In the United States, the maximum power limit for electric bike motors goes up to 750W and disengages assistance at speeds of 32 km/h. Europe and the UK have adopted stricter definitions, with a power output limit of 250W for electric bikes used on roads, disengaging electric assistance at 25 km/h.
As a result, electric bike riders in the EU and the UK generally experience less battery degradation due to the configuration of their bikes. By using more conservative pedal-assist software to manage their energy usage, electric bikes in the EU/UK theoretically operate more efficiently than similar products in the US market.
Commuting and active transportation electric bikes were never designed to be speed machines. The value of these pedal-assist bikes lies in alleviating the challenges of long-distance commuting along hilly routes or reducing the pain of riding against the wind on the way back home in the afternoon.
Electric bikes are most useful when enhancing the rider's power on steep climbs or against headwinds. In both cases, speed is low. Active commuters don't need to climb steep hills at 40 km/h.
For electric bike enthusiasts in the EU and the UK, the more conservative assist setting of 7 km/h for mid-drive motors can provide an excellent ownership experience and contribute to healthier long-term battery health.
Based on type and capacity, the weight of electric bicycle batteries can range from 5 pounds to 40 pounds or even heavier. Typical lithium-ion electric bicycle batteries can weigh as light as 5 pounds and go up to 20 pounds. On the other hand, lead-acid electric bicycle batteries are larger in size and heavier, starting from 30 pounds.
The weight of electric bicycle batteries is not randomly determined; factors such as voltage, ampere-hour capacity, anode and cathode materials, and other metal components contribute to the weight.
In simple terms, batteries with higher voltage and larger capacity tend to be heavier, while batteries with lower voltage and smaller capacity are lighter.
Most riders prefer lightweight and maneuverable bicycles. Since it's not possible to reduce the weight of the electric bicycle frame or the weight of the motor and other key components, the only reasonable way to make the bicycle lighter is by adjusting the weight of the battery.
Whether it's an internally integrated frame battery or a simple removable external battery, understanding the weight of the electric bicycle battery and, if possible, replacing it with a lighter battery can help make your electric bicycle lighter.
Comparison of Different Bicycle Weights
Here is a side-by-side comparison of the best lightweight electric bicycles. Hopefully, it will help you find your ideal bicycle.
There are various types of electric bicycle batteries, and each type has a different weight value.
We can certainly discuss the weight of internally integrated or externally removable or fixed batteries. However, it would be easier to understand if we categorize the batteries based on their chemistry and material composition.
Lithium-ion Batteries:
Well-made removable internal and external lithium-ion batteries typically weigh around 8 pounds to 17 pounds.
Lead-acid batteries are cheaper but heavier compared to lithium-ion batteries. You would typically find lead-acid batteries weighing between 30 pounds to 40 pounds.
What factors affect the weight of electric bicycle batteries?
Voltage and Capacity:
Electric bicycle batteries are a combination of interconnected batteries. The more batteries there are, the higher the ampere-hour capacity and voltage flow. These batteries have a metallic body along with metal anodes and cathodes, so their weight is definitely noticeable.
Material Composition:
Graphite, nickel, copper, lead or lithium-ion, metal oxides, and zinc—all these battery types have composition components, most of which are metals, making them a significant factor behind the heavyweight batteries.
Yes, electric bicycles have weight limits. The weight of leisure bicycles typically ranges from 200 pounds to 300 pounds, while cargo/load-carrying bicycles weigh around 450 pounds to 550 pounds.
Please note that weight limits refer to the bike's ability to withstand a certain weight. Therefore, a weight limit of 200 pounds means that your electric bicycle weighing 50 pounds or 60 pounds will be able to comfortably carry around 200 pounds without affecting performance.
Is the weight of your electric bicycle important?
The weight of a bicycle is indeed crucial. A heavy electric bicycle may be reliable and comfortable to ride, but storing or carrying it can be a hassle. If you have to transport a bike weighing around 70 pounds to 80 pounds (including the weight of the battery) to your office or home, it can be quite inconvenient.
If you are a racer or seeking additional speed with an electric bicycle, a heavy bike will not provide satisfactory performance. Yes, the motor can certainly provide enough power to reach a certain speed, but the weight of the bike will be the biggest drawback in terms of speed.
If you are a racer or enthusiast looking to enjoy decent speed on an electric bicycle, you can certainly opt for a carbon fiber frame and rims, remove suspension systems, and add tubeless tires to shed a few pounds. However, in doing so, you may have to compromise on comfort.
The weight of the electric bicycle battery certainly affects speed.
Let's consider a real scenario where you participate in a race, and you've done everything to make your bike lighter—using tubeless tires, carbon fiber rims and frame, and even removing suspension systems; you are satisfied with the weight of the bike.
But when you add a 20-pound battery to the bicycle, firstly, the weight distribution becomes uneven. The motor can provide enough torque to increase speed, but the weight of the battery makes it challenging to maneuver the electric bicycle.
Despite having a lightweight bike, the weight distribution, maneuverability, and ultimately the speed of your electric bicycle will be affected; all the blame falls on the battery.
A decent lithium-ion battery weighs around 17 pounds. You may also find batteries weighing around 8 pounds, but their performance may not meet the standards.
Generally, lithium-ion batteries containing lithium, graphite, nickel, and metal oxides may have relatively higher weights compared to regular batteries. However, efforts are constantly being made to make them lighter while maintaining the standards of electric bicycles.
Electric bicycle batteries are heavy due to their construction materials and configuration. If you want the battery to have a larger capacity and voltage, you need to incorporate a sufficient number of individual batteries inside the battery pack.
These batteries have anode and cathode structures made of metals, along with copper, graphite, metal oxides, and other essential components. The weight of the plastic casing around the battery is negligible; it is primarily the inherent weight of these materials that adds to the overall weight of the battery.
It's a simple trade-off: if you want higher capacity in your electric bicycle battery, you will have to accept the burden of its weight.
For riders who value speed, having a lightweight electric bicycle is essential. The best way to reduce the overall weight of an electric bicycle is by using lightweight batteries.
The weight of the bicycle frame and motor is fixed and cannot be changed, but using a carbon fiber frame can help. Tubeless tires and carbon fiber rims can also significantly reduce weight.
Lead-acid batteries may be cheaper, but they are heavy to carry. For leisure use, an 8-pound lithium-ion battery would be the best choice.
The first step in converting a regular bicycle into an electric bicycle is to install the battery. The installation process is relatively simple, but it is important to thoroughly understand the process before deciding where to place the battery.
Electric bicycle batteries can be installed on the bicycle in various ways. Most electric bicycles come with pre-installed batteries and mounting features. However, if you want to change the installation orientation for convenience or install the battery on a new bicycle, you will need to follow some simple instructions.
Battery case
Heat sink
Rivet nuts
Bolts, screws, and nuts
Wires and connectors
Wrenches (regular, Allen, rivet)
Screwdriver
Installing the Battery on a Brand New Bicycle:
You can purchase a complete kit with a display, motor, throttle, and speed sensor online to convert your regular bicycle into an electric bicycle.
Step 1: Remove Old Components
Remove the chain, bottom bracket, pedals, mechanical lines, and brakes. Converting your regular bicycle into an electric bicycle means removing almost everything from the old bicycle.
Step 2: Install the Electric Bicycle System
Mount the motor on the bottom bracket and lubricate it. Install the display, brakes, and throttle on the frame.
Step 3: Initialize Connections
Connect the display, throttle, brakes, and motor to the controller. Additionally, connect the speed sensor to the rear wheel.
Step 4: Choose Mounting Options
Mount your front rack or rear rack or triangle pack onto the bicycle.
Or
Drill a few holes, insert rivet nuts, and tighten them. You can now install the sliding mounting options onto the bicycle frame.
Step 5: Install the Battery
Mount the battery onto the mounting option, connect the battery, and it's done.
Step 6: Connect the Battery to the Bicycle
The overall wiring of the electric bicycle may seem complex, but connecting the battery is the simplest part so far.
You simply need to place the battery in the installation position and plug the connector into the controller.
While the connection between the bicycle and the battery may be straightforward, the wiring connection to the controller can be quite complex. For more information, you can refer to the instructions.
Rear and Front Rack Mounting:
The most common mounting option for a DIY battery on an electric bicycle is the rear rack option. Almost all bicycles are rear-wheel-drive (rear tire moves first), which is helpful for bearing heavy loads at the back.
Front frame battery mounting brackets may not be as popular as rear frame options, but they are undoubtedly a convenient choice for installing a DIY battery.
Pack (Triangle and Top Tube) Mount:
Using a triangle pack for mounting a DIY battery will be the simplest and sensible decision. The pack will be placed in the middle, which is perfect for achieving optimal weight distribution on the bicycle. Additionally, you don't have to waste time searching for wrenches or screwdrivers every time you need to remove the battery—taking out the pack is simple and hassle-free.
Top tube packs for mounting DIY batteries may not be as common, but they are also easy to install and detach on the bicycle frame.
Both dolphin cases and DIY battery water bottle mounts utilize the bicycle frame's water bottle cage.
Larger batteries may not fit in these, so you may need to replace the water bottle cage with a larger one.
The advantages of these two mounting options are ideal weight distribution and ease of detachment.
When you are using the power source, it is essential to take the strictest safety precautions.
Ebike batteries are quite expensive and finding a proper replacement is also quite time-consuming. Here are some tips, following them will surely help you secure your electric bike battery.
Having proper weight distribution of your ebike depends on where you are mounting the battery. There is more than one way to mount a battery and putting the battery inside a bag or in the water bottle case is the easiest one.
You need to have a brief Idea about how to mount an ebike battery, whether you want to turn a regular bike into an ebike or just want to change the mounting position of the battery. It’s easy and simple.